It is a common problem with GE refrigerators that the main controller board can malfunction after a power surge or power outage. This can result in the refrigerator or freezer no longer cooling or making odd surging or whining sounds from the back.

Fortunately, there is a relatively simple and inexpensive solution by ordering and replacing the main controller board. It is about $130 and takes just 30-40 minutes to replace. This is much cheaper than calling the GE repairman or buying a new refrigerator.

Below is the part you’ll need from amazon but be sure to enter your model number to ensure you are ordering the correct one for your fridge. You’ll be up and cooling again in no time!

Let us know below if this worked for you so you can help other GE refrigerator owners who’ve experienced a power outage or surge.

If your GE refrigerator is not dispensing water or warning you that the filter needs to be replaced then we can help you resolve this issue. The new GE refrigerator with RPWFE water filters use an RFID chip that tells the fridge then the RPWFE filter expires, even if the filter has some life left. Here are your options…

1. Replace filter with the a new GE water filter

The easiest and quickest resolution is to simply replace your water filter with a new GE RPWFE Water filter. These filters have a small RFID chip that the other manufacturers cannot duplicate so this forces you to buy the GE RPWFE filters. This is rather unfortunate as they are quite expensive but it is the easiest and fastest way to get the water flowing again. If you don’t want to purchase the GE filters, keep reading as we have other options for you.

2. Use the GE refrigerator filter plug bypass

If you purchase this GE Plug Bypass then it will enable your refrigerator to continue dispensing unfiltered water indefinitely. The bypass plug includes the RFID chip that tells the refrigerator to ignore the filter expiration timer and just let the user know that this is unfiltered water.

This is a great option if you already have another water filter installed in your home such as a whole house water filter. We actually use a reverse osmosis water filter that we installed under our sink and send the water through our refrigerator so we don’t need the filter. So the filter plug worked perfectly for us.

3. Hack the RFID system and purchase less expensive filters

If you want to save some money then follow the instructions in this video below to remove the RFID chip from the filter bypass plug then tape it over the sensor in the refrigerator. You can then purchase these less expensive, 3rd-party water filters. Granted, the system will tell you that the water is “not filtering” since it thinks you are using the bypass plug but that isn’t any big deal, right?

Has this worked for you? Let us know below so we can help other GE fridge owners!

If your GE refrigerator has clicking or ticking noise coming from the rear then it is likely a sign of a more serious issue.  Generally, the clicking comes from the main controller board, the brains of the refrigerator.  Chances are good that you’ll soon notice a drastic temperature variation in the cooling or the GE refrigerator will soon stop cooling altogether.  In some cases, you may also experience issues with the internal fridge or freezer lights, the LCD panel or the water/ice dispenser.  

Fortunately, there is a simple and fairly inexpensive fix. You don’t even need to call a refrigerator repairman as I’ll guide you through how to fix it yourself.  GE has improved the main control board to resolve these issues and is available for purchase on Amazon for about $140.  It is super easy to replace as I was able to replace it on our GE refrigerator controller board in just about 20 minutes.  This stopped the clicking and now our fridge is as good as new! I’ve even included a video below to help with the replacement.  

Make sure you find your GE refrigerator model number inside your refrigerator and enter it into the “Make sure this fits” entry field at the top of the Amazon product page to ensure this is the correct controller board for your GE model. Amazon makes it easy to find the right part as most of the older refrigerator mainboards, including WR55X10552, WR55X10656, WR55X10335 have all been replaced by the new and improved controller board, WR55X10942.

Here are a few examples of GE Refrigerator issues that were fixed with a new controller board:

“My 2006 GE refrigerator started making clicking sounds, temperature display went out and eventually stopped cooling.   Love Amazon. I ordered this on a Monday at noon and next day Tuesday it was at my door at 9am. It has been almost 2 weeks and my fridge is running as good as new.”

“No more clicking and all temperatures back in service.  Just heard ice drop ? Time for an A&W with crushed ice.”

“No joke, we got home on a Sunday evening from a weekend trip, and the refrigerator was clicking. A Google search said it might be something on the circuit board. I consulted the GE parts website to figure out which board we needed, and it indicated it was the WR55X10942. I searched for it on Amazon and found this item. It arrived today, and my husband installed it. The refrigerator is back up and running, and it only cost us about $150. Much cheaper than buying a new refrigerator!”

“My GE fridge was making a clicking noise about once a second. I researched the problem online and many websites said to replace the controller board. I ordered the board, swapped it, plugged in the fridge and it worked perfectly!”

“My parents fridge was making a clicking noise and the compressor would not always start. FIrst I changed capacitors on the board and that fixed the compressor but still would not keep the fridge at a constant temp so I changed out the full board and its now good as new”

“My refrigerator board was clicking so ordered this replacement board and replaced it. Very easy to install with instructions provided. Fridge works well since!

Here is a great video on the replacement of the GE refrigerator control board. If you’d like to verify that the clicking noise is actually coming from the control board then you can follow these instructions to take things apart, plug it back in before removing the board then you can hear the clicking from the main controller board.

While this fixes the GE refrigerator clicking issues for most people, let us know if this worked for you (or not) in the comments below so we can help each other fix these annoying problems!

If your GE refrigerator or freezer is suddenly warmer than it should be then you likely have an issue with the main controller board.

The controller board is the brain of the entire refrigerator so if the refrigerator or freezer is too warm then it is likely an issue with the main controller board.  Buttons don’t work on the water dispenser?  Likely the main controller board. The lights work but nothing else? You guessed it.

At this point, most homeowners would call the appliance or refrigerator repairman and probably spend $400 to have it fixed.  Actually you can order the controller board, have it delivered overnight and fix it yourself in under an hour.  You’ll have your freezer freezing and refirgerator cooling in no time and at a fraction of the cost.

I know, it sounds scary but it isn’t really that bad.  Fortunately, you can pick up a new main controller board from Amazon for around $130 and replace them yourself by just following the simple instructions or some youtube videos.  This will likely fix your GE refrigerator cooling issues.

Take your time replacing this controller board by following the video below and your fridge will be cooling as good as new!   Let us know if this worked for you (or not) in the comments below so we can help each other fix these annoying problems!

One morning I woke up and noticed my GE refrigerator quit working.  The power was on, the light in the refrigerator was on but neither the freezer nor the fridge was cold.   Sounds bad eh? Call the refrigerator repairman? No!

This is actually quite common with GE refrigerators.  Some users find that the unit quits cooling altogether while others find that just the refrigerator or freezer is no longer cold. This is almost always an issue with the main controller board which is essentially the “brains” of the refrigerator.

Other symptoms for the control board issue might include that it cools sometimes but not others while others hear a clicking, whistling or howling sound.  You might even see “HRS” flashing on the LCD panel if your refrigerator is equipped with one.

Apparently, the main controller boards will quit working on GE refrigerators quite often. Of course, you are welcome to calling an appliance repairman to fix it but it’ll probably cost $400-$500.  Or you can simply purchase this $135 main controller board from amazon and replace the old board in about 20 minutes.  This WR55X10942 board replaces the older refrigerator mainboards, such as WR55X10552, WR55X10656, WR55X10335.

Here are a few examples of GE Refrigerator issues that were fixed with a new controller board:

“GE refrigerator quit working on a Sunday morning. Called for repair, earliest appointment was in 7 days. Went DIY. Ordered part from Amazon that Sunday night. Board arrived Monday evening! Fridge fixed 39 minutes later. Unbelievably fast shipping and it was a relative breeze to install.”

“My Ge Profile psi23scrbsv fridge completely quit working after multiple power outages over a few day period. Interior light was working but only other sign of life was ‘HRS” flashing on the display panel. Some searching seemed to indicate this could be the main control board. Instead of waiting several days for an expensive service visit, I decided to try this myself. Ordered and received in less than 24hrs, and only took about 30mins to uninstall old board and install the new one (plus time to move fridge around) Fridge immediately came back to life when plugged back in and was fully cooled to my set temperatures in about 16-18 hours.”

“Factory replacement board. Very easy to install. Please note that the buses on this board differ from those on the board that came installed on my ten-year-old refrigerator. Despite the different location of the buses, installation is not difficult; just pay close attention to where you removed the plugs on the initial board.”

Let us know if this worked for you (or not) in the comments below so we can help each other fix these annoying issues!

If your GE refrigerator is not cooling consistently but everything else seems to work, such as the the lights inside are on then it may very well be an issue with the main controller board problem. The controller board is essentially the brains of the refrigerator so it can cause a number of issues if it is defective.  Unfortunately, this is a common issue with GE refrigerators.

 

Here are some common complaints from users that could definitely be caused my the motherboard.

• it’ll cool sporadically or doesn’t cool at all
• The refrigerator cools but their freezer is no longer cold
• Ice melts and then refreezes
• Hear a constant clicking sound from the motherboard in the back of the fridge
• Hear a “howling” sound from the rear.
• The refrigerator lights dim when your water or ice dispenser is dispensing.
• The LCD panel then you might see the letters “HRS” flashing on it.
• It’ll freeze ice then melt and refreeze again

Unfortunately, it is fairly common for main controller boards on GE refrigerators to fail. If you check out the motherboard you might find burnt marks or bad soldering joints from overheating. Calling a repairman to diagnose and fix the problem will likely cost $400-$500. Fortunately, you can purchase the controller board from amazon for about $140 and swap it yourself in 20 minutes, even if you are not very handy. GE makes it easy to find the right part as most of the older refrigerator mainboards, including WR55X10552, WR55X10656, WR55X10335 have all been replaced by the new and improve controller board, WR55X10942.

You’ll want to grab your model number from the inside of your GE refrigerator then enter it in to the “Make sure this fits” entry field at the top of the control board page on amazon to ensure it works for your refrigerator. If not then it’ll give you some options for other control board replacements.

Here are a few examples of GE Refrigerator issues that were fixed with a new controller board:

“The light inside the freezer and fridge were working, but nothing else was. The refrigerator was not cooling, the water/ice dispenser and the digital displays were not functional. It was like someone turned everything off except the inside lights. Bought this motherboard and was able to install it in a matter of minutes. It literally takes no understanding of electronics to do so.”

“My main control board was clicking so purchased this replacement board. Remove the old one and replaced with this one. Very easy to install. Fridge work well since!”

“A few years ago things started going south on me; ice and water dispenser, freezer temperature, funky howling/whining noises… etc, all of which would come and go. Got to a point where the cycling of the compressor “

“My 13 yr old GE stopped cooling. No Ice maker lights nor temperature displays but the lights in both the freezer and fridge side worked. A little research and I came to the conclusion the main control board (motherboard) was likely dead… I grabbed this motherboard and WOW! It worked like a charm!!!”

“we started noticing temperature fluctuations in the freezer. At first it was minimal then gradually we started noticing large fluctuations. It would be 0 then a few hours later it would be 18. At the end I noticed it as high as 30’s. All this time the fridge part was staying pretty stable. I couldn’t afford to hire a technician to come out so I let it limp along. Eventually we started hearing clicking every few seconds/minutes. Last week it stopped cooling all together.”

Here is a great video on the replacement of the GE refrigerator control board.

While this fixes the GE refrigerator cooling issue for most people, let us know if this worked for you (or not) in the comments below so we can help each other fix these annoying problems!